The Local's Guide to Los Angeles and Southern California



LA CONSERVANCY ART DECO WALKING TOUR
Who Says:
Abby Abanes
Topic:
Things To Do
Place:
Downtown LA


06/12/2006
It started off a little gray, but soon sunshine came our way for what was a very informative walking tour. On this particular day, I went on the LA Conservancy Art Deco Walking Tour. For 2-1/2 hours, we explored a lot of the beautiful Art Deco architecture that Los Angeles had to offer.

Before I talk about the tour itself, first, let me tell you a little about Art Deco. For one thing, "Art Deco" is actually a relatively new term that was coined in 1968 by Bevis Hillier. The words "Art Deco" came from "Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes," which translates to International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts. This exposition was part of the Paris World Fair in 1928.

Art Deco was characterized by clean, geometric and elegant lines that replaced the excessive decoration of previous styles. For example, when looking at an Art Deco building, the eye is supposed to follow the bottom of the building to the top without stopping whereas a Beaux-Art building has so much ornamentation that your eye gets distracted as it looks from top to bottom. This twentieth century movement in the decorative arts, grew to influence architecture, design, fashion and the visual arts.

Specifically when Art Deco came to America, there were two distinct architectural phases. From 1925 to 1930, the earlier phase was referred to as "Style Moderne" or Zigzag Moderne." Zigzag Moderne takes its name from the lavish ornamentation which often included zigzags (chevrons), ziggurats (stepped pyramid shapes), spirals, figure sculpture stylized plants and animals. Buildings following this style also had a strong vertical emphasis, as if they were reaching for the sky. Setbacks with recessed windows in the buildings gave them an illusion of even greater height.

In the 1930s, the second phase emerged and was referred to as "Streamline Moderne." With the Great Depression so came the end of the lavish use of opulent materials. Buildings were stripped to sleek forms and new designs that were more horizontal began to gain favor over the vertical emphasis. Vertically oriented recessed windows of the Zigzag Moderne style were replaced by bands of horizontal windows. Even the materials changed. Glass, brick and aluminum were replacing the brightly colored terra cotta used in the earlier phase. Chrome and aluminum stripping replaced copper or marble sidings.

While Art Deco Architecture eventually lost ground by World War II, the Art Deco style is still prevalent in modern times from furnishings to jewelry and fashion, which goes to show that what is old will always be new again, eventually. Ok, now that I've given you some general info about Art Deco, let's talk about the tour.

We first started at the Oviatt Building, which due to its architectural elements really spawned the Art Deco movement in Los Angeles. Just a bit of history on who James Oviatt is - he used to own one of the pre-eminent haberdasheries in Los Angeles. The restaurant, Cicada, is the former shop location. While on a trip to France, he went to the Paris Exposition and fell in love with the Art Deco style. He fell in love to the point that he had a lot of Art Deco fixtures and furnishings made in France and had them shipped to LA. Upon their arrival in the US, he set out to have a building built that would showcase this new love.

When we arrived at the Oviatt building, we walked in the sheltered lobby and this is where our docent told us about the history of the Oviatt family as well as of the building itself. The main thing he wanted us to be aware of is Rene Lalique's contributions to the Oviatt Building. Look up and you'll see beautiful yellow glass. While the glass on the ceiling has been replicated, the glass at the top of the columns are still original. Also, the elevator door and than mailbox are by Lalique as well and thankfully, also original. That elevator took us to the Oviatt penthouse.


Once inside the penthouse, we were treated to an Art Deco extravaganza where everything from the furniture to the fixtures to the bar and flooring and even the carpeting were all done in the Art Deco style which included lots of geometric shapes and patterns. Outside, there is a spacious rooftop terrace that gave you a 360-degree view of downtown LA. However, even with all beautiful Art Deco pieces, I have to say that the most interesting thing about the Oviatt penthouse is the guest bathroom that also doubles as a sitting room. The beautiful fabric chair is not what it seems. Pull up the handle to reveal a toilet of all things.

Abby C. Abanes is a Senior Graphic Designer who has decided not to take the 12 step program to kick her addiction to Los Angeles because she's just having too much fun. If you'd like to join her in her travels around LA, please join MEETinLA and look for her events on the group calendar or check out her dining group, Pleasure Palate.



While it was difficult to leave the Oviatt penthouse, eventually we went on our way and discovered even more Art Deco beauty, everything from the Garfield Building, which is one of the buildings that started the trend in Art Deco architecture. However, it still wasn't able to make the complete transition since the architectural elements are a mixture of Art Nouveau and Art Deco.

Around the corner from the Garfield Building was the Eastern Columbia Building. It's a structure clad in blue-green terra cotta and with gold trim that cost $25,000 at 1930 prices. Terra cotta, by the way, is hard semi fired waterproof ceramic clay.

Across the street was the Ninth & Broadway building. While this building looked like it was built of stone, in actuality, the tan-colored terra cotta was textured to resemble stone. It's also unique in that it has a two-story entrance. The use of grapevines as a design element is also used throughout this building.

Other buildings of note included the turquoise Eastern Columbia building, the bright green Sun Realty building, the Los Angeles Fur Building, William Fox Building, the Title Guarantee & Trust Building and finally the Southern California Edison Building.

Before we checked out the Title Trust & Guarantee Building, we stopped across from Pershing Square while our docent gave us more info about Art Deco. We stood below a public neon art installation of flashing multi-colored neon circles that ran almost the length of the sidewalk above pedestrians. I've walked this sidewalk once before but never looked up. This time around I did and lo and behold, a group of upside down people, so of course, I had to had to take my picture of that.

Anyway, that camera moment, soon after we headed to our last stop, which was the Southern California Edison Company Building. An interesting fact about the Edison Building is that it was one of the first all-electrically heated and cooled buildings constructed in western United States. If you happen to be in the neighborhood, definitely drop in, because inside, you will see an amazing lobby that is made up of over 17 different kinds of marble.


It was definitely a great 2-1/2 hours spent getting to see examples of Art Deco architecture. I think that more people should really just take a walk downtown because there really is a lot of amazing architecture and cars unfortunately don't allow you the opportunity to really the beauty around you.

If you'd like to join me for any of my upcoming "Urban Explorers" events that I organize through MEETinLA, click one of the links below.

--Abby Abanes

Upcoming "Urban Explorers" Events

08/19 - Hollywood Forever Cemetary Tour
09/02 - Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angeles Tour
09/09 - Art’s a Trip FREE Metro Gold Line Tour
10/14 - Art’s a Trip FREE Metro Red Line Tour – Part 1
11/11 - Art’s a Trip FREE Metro Red Line Tour – Part 2



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Dining Out in Los Angeles

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12/06/2006 - LOS ANGELES by Abby Abanes: Golden Triangle – Truly Worth Its Weight in Gold Recently, I set up a sampler dinner at Golden Triangle for my dining group, where we got to experience 14 different Burmese dishes. Wow, what an evening of culinary delight. Out of the 14 dishes, I've had six of them before and of course, that includes Golden Triangle's signature dish, their Ginger Salad. For those of you who have never had this salad before, believe me, it's worth the drive to Whittier just to try it. The Ginger Salad consists ......GOLDEN TRIANGLE – Truly Worth Its Weight in Gold
Dining in Los Angeles

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11/30/2006 - LOS ANGELES by Abby Abanes: Being Filipino, I'm very picky about Filipino food. At every Filipino restaurant I go to, the litmus test for me is that after having eaten there, I ask myself, is the food there as good as Mom's cooking. It doesn't even matter to me whether it's a particular dish that my Mom has made or not. It's more about the food matching up to my Mom's high standard of cooking. Recently, I went with my dining group, Pleasure Palate, for the first time to check out Alejandro's in the Glassell Park area and ......ALEJANDRO'S - JUST LIKE MOM'S COOKING!
Things to do in Los Angeles

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06/29/2006 - HOLLYWOOD by Abby Abanes: Just recently, I went on a private docent-led tour of the Egyptian Theater in Hollywood. This tour started in the theater courtyard and eventually took us into the theater itself followed by a visit to the old dressing rooms and finally ended at their state-of-the-art projection booth. Along the way, we learned a lot of history about this Sid Grauman creation that came long before his more well known Graumans Chinese theater down the street. In 1922 Sid Grauman tried to shift the entertainment ......EGYPTIAN THEATRE TOUR IN HOLLYWOOD
Things to do in Los Angeles

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06/12/2006 - DOWNTOWN LA by Abby Abanes: It started off a little gray, but soon sunshine came our way for what was a very informative walking tour. On this particular day, I went on the LA Conservancy Art Deco Walking Tour. For 2-1/2 hours, we explored a lot of the beautiful Art Deco architecture that Los Angeles had to offer. Before I talk about the tour itself, first, let me tell you a little about Art Deco. For one thing, "Art Deco" is actually a relatively new term that was coined in 1968 by Bevis Hillier. The words "Art Deco" cam ......LA CONSERVANCY ART DECO WALKING TOUR
Things to do in Los Angeles

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06/07/2006 - LUCERNE VALLEY by Abby Abanes: Just recently, I got to do something that not very many people can claim to have done. I petted wolves. It was a very interesting 2 hour experience and it happened at Wolf Mountain Sanctuary in the Lucerne Valley. The founder, Tonya Littlewolf, who refers to herself as a half-breed, had been raised primarily at an Apache reservation and has been around wolves since she was two. She actually refers to herself as the Alpha Wolf, which means that all the other wolves look to her as the leader. Bef ......WOLF MOUNTAIN SANCTUARY - Lucerne Valley
Things to do in Los Angeles

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05/25/2006 - PASADENA by Abby Abanes: On April 30, I went with a friend on the Bungalow Heaven Home Tour in Pasadena. Bungalow Heaven is actually a Landmark District in the City of Pasadena and what makes it so special is that in that area, there are over 800 bungalows built during the 1900s through the 1930s. So what exactly is a bungalow you may ask? Definition wise, the word bungalow derives from the Hindi word bangla which literally means a house "in the Bengal style." Such houses were traditionally small, one story h ......URBAN EXPLORER - Bungalow Heaven Home Tour
Things to do in Los Angeles

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05/05/2006 - LOS ANGELES by Abby Abanes: On a gray day in April, I embarked on the McDonald's History Tour led by McHistorian Chris Nichols. For many, the McDonalds were thought to be fictional characters and that Ray Kroc was considered to be the founder of McDonald's. In actuality, Richard (Dick) and Maurice (Mac) McDonald were real people and they truly started the McDonald's legacy. This tour tells some of their story. The day started with over 50 of us meeting at the McDonald's in Downey, which is currently the oldest working Mc ......URBAN EXPLORER - MCDONALD'S HISTORY TOUR
Things to do in Los Angeles

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04/06/2006 - DOWNTOWN LA by Abby Abanes: I really enjoy exploring the various nooks and crannies that make up Los Angeles and one of the ways I do that is to take the various walking tours that the LA Conservancy offers on weekends. On April Fool's Day, of all days, I was on the Historic Core Walking tour. We had just came out of the lobby of the Subway Terminal Building and were standing on the corner behind the building listening to our docent talk about the former Broadway Department store. The Subway Terminal Building, by the way, ......ROADSIDE L.A. - April Fool's Trick on Me!
Things to do in Los Angeles

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04/06/2006 - DOWNTOWN LA by Abby Abanes: Tales of an L.A. Addict! I'm constantly amazed that with all that Los Angeles has to offer, so few people rarely try to discover and experience all of its riches. A few years ago, I decided to break out of my same old routine and made it my mission to explore as much of Los Angeles' architectural, cultural, historical and food landscape as possible. Through my explorations, I discovered how much I really am addicted to all that is fun, quirky, dramatic, sad, delicious and even not-so-delicious ......URBAN EXPLORER - ADDICTED TO L.A.
Things to do in Los Angeles

















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